We have been getting pretty good videos for the past few days, but it seems the animals have realized we aren’t actually predators and have gone on strike. After the first night of filming, Talia was dissatisfied with the lighting and visibility of the animals, so we decided to get a few more lights and dust the jerboas with glitter to make them more reflective and easier to track. Yes, we bedazzled already adorable rodents. Each one got dropped in a plastic bag and exploded out in a poof of fabulousness. I have named one particularly good runner “Speedy Sparklepants”. They are hilarious.

It’s okay that these individuals gave up on running for us, because these 5-toed jerboas are actually not that hard to catch. They do freeze in the light better than the 3-toed ones, so we’ve actually been able to catch them along the road. The driver has an eagle eye for determining whether objects in the road are rocks or jerboas, and he navigates the car to help spotlight the animals in the high beams. Tonight Yang even caught two with his bare hands since we had given our few remaining unbroken nets back to the guy who is off catching 3-toed jerboas for us tonight. These jerboas are amazing runners, and Talia got pretty good infrared video of a chase and catch as one went zigzagging along the asphalt. I wish they would have the fear of an untimely demise like that when we’re filming in a calibrated setup where she could actually track their movement and get useful data out of it.

As we were approaching the field station this evening, a football-sized trundling critter appeared along the very edge of the road. It wasn’t moving very fast. Turns out it ordinarily doesn’t have to. It was a hedgehog! We all jumped out of the car, and Yang still had on his work gloves, so he just scooped it up into the palms of both hands. The poor little guy immediately pulled his face and legs into a completely enclosed ball of spines. We stood around laughing and marveling at his coolness, and then Yang said “ok, I’m going to take it back to Urumqi tomorrow.” He’s returning for a day or two to take care of some things, and the folks in his lab seem to have decided that they can care for any small animal they can catch. The trouble is that we no longer had any empty cages in the car that could contain the guy. Yang was close to just dropping him in the trunk until we convinced him that was a really bad idea, so he jumped in the front seat instead. We were only just around the corner from the field station anyway, but the driver seemed quite concerned he would unball himself and get loose in the car, so he held a screwdriver at the ready and tapped the hedgehog a few times when it seemed he felt the coast was clear. He’s now chilling in a cage in the lab. Probably a little annoyed that he was just trundling along, minding his own business…

We’ve also been having a great time immersing ourselves in the local Kazakh culture. Yesterday we had to head into Fukang to find glitter and a few more flashlights to illuminate the arena, so we made an afternoon of it. I now know the Chinese characters for camel, and I have to admit that I now understand the pictographic nature of the language – the characters luo tuo actually really do look like two camels. Yang asked if we wanted to try camel’s milk, so we all had our eyes peeled for the characters for camel until we found a lower level shop selling camel’s milk and camel yoghurt. This was such a huge traveler’s no no – unpasteurized dairy products. But the local people were coming in a steady stream, it was all refrigerated, and I have a supply of antibiotics just in case. It was tasty. The yoghurt was a bit strange. Super tart and tasted very slightly carbonated with tiny chunks. The milk though was amazing. Thick rich whole milk with a slightly grassy flavor more like yak’s milk. We bought a half liter and used it to make milk tea the next morning. Yummy. The same shop also sold fabric items: Kazakh wedding dresses, pillow forms, and various bits of bedding and decorations. Sarah and I spent a solid hour rifling through piles of gorgeous pieces with brightly colored floral patterns embroidered in a traditional Kazakh style. I found a wall hanging that’s meant to go behind a bedframe or along the wall behind a sofa. It’s going to be a gorgeous conversation piece in my future house some day.

We set off this morning in search of cardboard pieces so that Talia can build a trackway to film the animals’ movement up close on a sandy substrate, and after scavenging through the local recycling center, Sarah and Yang went off to the desert to bring back buckets of sand while Talia and I took care of a few things at the field station. They returned about an hour later, and Sarah bounced out of the car yelling “Hurry, they’re going to take us to the horse races! Kazakh horse races!” So we all piled into the car and drove a few minutes south of 222 and out into an open field full of people, cars, trailers, and motorcycles. There were several hundred Kazakh people excitedly watching the horses race past on the bare dusty earth. The story I got was that a wealthy Kazakh man in the area arranged the races in celebration of his son or daughter’s wedding. The Kazakh horses are a bit smaller than horses we’re familiar with, and they were ridden bareback by young men/older boys. The track is 5 kilometers around, and they have to run the track in 6 laps, so it’s more of a race for endurance than speed. These poor horses had worked up a lather by the time we arrived since they were on the last lap. I’m not sure who won, because I was too distracted by all of the men trying very enthusiastically to communicate with us. As soon as we arrived, so many curious pairs of eyes focused on us. Two big burly guys kept wanting to pose for photos with us, and a whole family asked me to take their picture. Super warm and friendly people which made the whole experience just as much about the folks watching the race as it was about the race itself. And back to the topic of camels – apparently the top prize for the race was one camel. I wish I’d been able to race and win a camel.

We just got back from the desert about a half hour ago, at 2:30 am, after a pretty successful evening. We also went earlier in the day to build a fenced off enclosure where we could run the animals in front of Talia’s infrared cameras. As we were getting into the car, I said to the girls “I’m not expecting anything, but I’m curious to see if the driver decides to pitch in at any point since he seems really interested in what we’re doing.” I didn’t expect it because we’ve only hired the guy as a driver, not to help with the field work. But he quickly surprised me by heading straight up the sand dune with us and then helping Talia to construct the fenced area while Sarah and I set traps to see what we might catch this evening (6 more gerbils for anyone who is keeping count). By the time we returned to where they were working, they had all of the stakes in the ground and the netting in place and were wiring the last side. Pretty good teamwork with some charades and basic Chinese.

The driver was concerned about leaving our things in the desert and wanted to call someone to come keep watch while we went back into town for dinner, but we convinced him that no one would bother any of it. Plus he stopped as we were leaving and asked some folks who were collecting medicinal plants in the desert to just keep an eye out for as long as they would be there. It was getting dark soon anyway, so I wasn’t too worried about more people coming along. After dinner, we rallied again and headed back to our study location to get some animals moving. The Chinese man who had been catching animals for us came along, and we sent him and Yang off to do some catching and bring a few more of the 5-toed jerboas. They weren’t even gone long before they returned with five animals. I think they are relatively easy to catch as far as jerboas go. They jump around a lot more than the 3-toed ones, but they seem to startle in the light better.

So we got all of the lights and cameras set up and got animals into the enclosure one by one, starting with one of the gerbils. He just kind of went bonkers everywhere and kept trying to climb the netted walls of the enclosure. His galloping run looks pretty awesome on the high speed video. The 3-toed guys just sort of hop about and don’t seem bothered by much, but the 5-toed ones are a lot more active. Toward the end, once we got all of the lights in the right positions and figured out how to get good video, the last one we used was hoppy all over the place. Really good study animal, so he got a star in hopes he’ll continue to perform well.

After about three hours of running around, we decided it was good for a first trial and packed up shop to head back. As we were loading things back into the research building at the field station, I noticed there were two boxes in the middle of the entry way floor that were about the size of old TV boxes. And they were making noises. Clearly something alive was inside. I was surprised, because I thought we were the only ones working on animals here. Everyone we’ve talked to is doing work on soil or plants. So we flicked on the lights and cautiously approached to discover that each box contained about 10 live chickens. Sarah and I busted out laughing. She pulled out her iphone and started documenting a short video. She’s been pretty good about narrating videos of what we’ve been seeing and doing. I think it’s the delirium of the late hour combined with the fact that there were two boxes of chickens in the research building, but we just kept laughing between blank-faced statements of “Of course there are chickens. Why wouldn’t there be?”

So I’m back, it’s 3 am, I’m showered, and I know that every mole or skin tag on my body really is a mole or a skin tag. That had to be determined before I could sleep well tonight. I’ve blogged about this in past years - the drawback to the awesomeness of camels in the desert is that there are also camel ticks in the desert. And they’re disgusting. I’ve seen a half dozen or so, including one I pulled off my leg before it had managed to latch on for a meal. That was before I got smart and tucked my pants into my socks. They drop out of the shrubs and follow you through the desert, so you have to keep moving to keep them off. That’s tough when you’re in a fixed position next to a camera for an extended period of time. Sarah flicked one off her leg earlier in the day and pulled another off of the back of Talia’s shirt. She thought they were spiders because they have weirdly long spindly legs, but nope. They’re definitely ticks. And we have another week of experiences that are starting to give me signs of delusional parasitosis.

Now the real adventures begin. We arrived at the field station on Sunday and met with The Fixer on Monday afternoon to discuss arranging a driver for the next week or so. We explained to him what the goals are, where we’d like to go, the time of day/night, duration of the trip, and asked for a price estimate before we go to negotiate with the drivers. There are a bunch of drivers at the market, so I figured we’d just go that way and see who gives us the best price. He started to go on about how it’s complicated to say how much it will cost because of variables like the time, road conditions, etc. I just wanted a ballpark for price per kilometer or price per hour so I’d know what to expect and where to start. Somewhere in these negotiations, a driver pulled up - a friend of The Fixer who he wanted us to hire. At some point in the “it’s complicated” negotiations that a Chinese student (Yang) was trying to help me with, Sarah interrupted and took over negotiating for me. The whole game changed. She got them to understand that it doesn’t have to be complicated because they already know all of the variables. She also got them to agree to an estimate for the first day with room for each side to negotiate if either I or the driver don’t think the price is fair. The Chinese student seemed a little astonished that this worked so well, and it validated the argument I’d been making about her value to the institute - she managed to help reach an agreement far more quickly than if we’d done things in a more Chinese and left room for flexibility on both sides. This was probably only possible though because I’ve cultivated a reputation for honesty.

So off we went to explore the desert. We visited the location I’d gone to a few weeks ago along the oil highway where I’d seen lots of tracks and where we’d been told there are lots of 3-toed jerboas. One of the things Talia wants to do is to take soil compaction measurements using a penetrometer. It’s not as dirty as it sounds. It’s basically a hand held tool that measures the amount of force it takes to press a small foot into the ground by a set amount. She’s been taking readings in all of the different locations and at the top and bottom of sand dunes and samples of the earth so that she can better understand the environment with which the jerboa feet are interacting as they bound along.

We had planned to visit another location last night, but we got distracted instead by camels. It’s just one of those times when you sacrifice a little bit of work for an amazing experience. A Kazakh family with a house by the roadside had about a half dozen baby goats that had lost their moms, so that was pretty cute to begin with. But then we rounded the corner of the house and walked over to where there were three mamma camels with their babies. Soooooooo painfully cute. They even have little baby humps. But a baby camel is no small fry. Each of these little guys was probably no more than a couple weeks old but already stood at about my shoulder. The mamma camels were a bit unpredictable, and I kept expecting to get clocked by a giant head suspended on a long neck. At one point, one of the gals started to walk toward me, but they each have a rope tied to one foot, so she accidentally stepped on the rope and managed to hobble herself. Good for me, because I think she had more than “hello” in mind.

This morning we went to make up for the lost hours last night and visited a couple of other jerboa capture sites. More camels! We had to wait for a whole herd at a camel crossing before we could continue on the road to a flat dry field where the 5-toed jerboas are supposedly prevalent. So once we had the lay of the land, we returned to the field station where everyone else took an afternoon siesta, and I got a little work done before we set out to lay some traps in a field near here. We will probably only catch sand rats (gerbils/jirds), but since Talia wants to compare bipedal and quadrupedal rodents, those are still useful.

After dinner this evening, we set out once more to a place where we were told there are both 5 and 3-toed jerboas. I walked along the top of the dune with my headlamp sweeping slowly in each direction and managed to see about a dozen 3-toed jerboas. Mostly though I just got good at spotting spiders since their eyes also glow in the light, but they’re much smaller than rodent eyes and kind of green in color. The jerboas are really quick though, so about all I got to appreciate was their escape maneuvering as their eyes bounced off into the distance. Fortunately my companions are a little quicker and managed to net a jerboa and a sand rat before we left that area. The driver was super helpful also. He stayed with the car, but every once in awhile he would flick on the headlights and change position so he could highlight animals for us. I think he finds this whole adventure to be funny and fun at the same time.

On our way out of the desert, along a dirt road, we saw a whole bunch more 3-toed jerboas, and Yang eagerly hopped out to chase them down. I think he wore himself out, but he was successful and caught another two jerboas before we left the desert. We then stopped at a place where there were supposed to be 5-toed jerboas but didn’t see any until we were leaving along a paved road and caught sight of them in the headlights of the car hopping down the road. The driver passed the first one by before realizing we wanted to stop and try to catch it, so he threw the car into reverse. I remember saying “it’ll be either gone or squished” not really expecting the latter until we once again passed it and saw the poor thing lying in the road. The good thing is that he didn’t feel anything for long, but I can’t understand why he didn’t hop out of the way. Fortunately we caught two more alive also along the road, so Talia now has some research subjects for her filming.